About two years ago, I saw the movie Food, Inc. about America's corporate controlled food industry and it changed my life and the way I think about food. Not that my body is a temple or anything but, after learning about the way animals are treated on corporate farms, I just don't have a taste for meat any longer. With that being said, before coming to Charleston, I was worrried about finding a lot of restaurant options because low-country cooking is so meat-centric. What the heck is pork belly anyway? Luckily for me, Charleston chefs are also very much a part of the farm to table movement and there are lots of delicious vegetables and grains to choose from at most restaurants although you might have to ask the server for some help with that. I do eat fish which gives me some more options. While Jack eats mostly vegetables and fish for his main course, he still eats meat on occasion and enjoyed sampling some traditional Southern foods during our visit.
Jack and I agree that the best meal that we had in Charleston was lunch at a restaurant called Husk. We were able to sit outside (in February) on the second story balcony which added to the experience. The coffee they serve at Husk is specially produced for the restaurant in Haiti where the soil is similar to South Carolina soil in the 1800's. It was strong and delicious. We loved the shrimp and grits and that the cornbread came to the table in a little cast iron skillet. We could see why Husk was named, "Best New Restaurant of the Year" by Bon Appetite magazine. The service was great, too.
The executive chef at Husk is also the chef at another local restaurant, McCrady's. Jack and I enjoyed the 4 course tasting menu at McCrady's thanks to a gift certificate from our daughter Emily and her boyfriend Grant. The restaurant features southern cooking with a modern flair and the sauces and food accents to each dish were what made them stand out. Simple dishes prepared in a new way. (At least to me.) We had a rutabaga soup as a starter that was out of this world! The service at McCrady's was attentive but not pushy and we loved the ambiance of the rooms with lots of dark wood and local art work on the brick walls.
The restaurant is down an alley and has large windows that were the doors to a stable in the building during George Washington's time. Legend has it that he would eat in the meeting room upstairs and that a cannon would be fired each time a toast was made in his honor so that all of the Charleston citizens could drink with him. Hard to believe that a building that old is still standing. If you plan on visiting Charleston and would like to visit either of these restaurants try and make reservations prior to your arrival. Due to a recent write up in the New Yorker and other national publications, Husk and McCrady's are a hot ticket in town!
In addition to eating at some of Charleston's "must see" restaurants like Poogan's Porch and SNOB, Jack and I tried to search out some great places off the beaten path where the locals go to eat (like Merichka's in Joliet). We found several spots just by talking to people that we came across while we were walking Coco, who is a terrific Good Will Ambassador for us since everyone wants to stop and talk about her.
Trattoria Lucca was suggested to us by a number of different people who each mentioned the restaurant's take on Italian food. It is definitely not Olive Garden; while pasta, handmade fresh daily, is served with each dish, it seems to be a component of the meal rather than the centerpiece. We liked the fact that the restaurant is hidden away in a residential neighborhood in a tiny, old store front. It's so small that there is no waiting area and you need to walk down the block to their bar, Enoteca which is also in an old store front. The hostess calls Enoteca when your table is ready and you can bring your drink back down to the restaurant with you. It's quirky and fun.
Our favorite restaurants seemed to be the casual, relatively inexpensive ones with a great, fun vibe that just so happened to be located within walking distance of our rental house. It goes without saying that their food was good too!
Five Loaves restaurant started out as a soup and sandwich lunch place that later expanded to serving dinner. It's another small space in a residential area within walking distance of downtown but not on the tourist strip. It's close to the College of Charleston and can get crowded. They don't take reservations so the earlier you get there the better. I will say that we never waited more than 15 minutes and they let you order your drink and take it outside while you wait for a table. On Wednesday and Saturday nights they offer 1/2 price bottles of wine which is a nice thing if you're a wine drinker like me.
Fuel is a cross between a diner and a Caribbean bar that is located in an old gas station. It has a great outdoor bar that allows dogs. Jack liked the Jerked Chicken sandwich and I loved the Shrimp Tacos. They had good music on the sound system the two times we were there and when the weather is nice they open the garage bay doors in front and back. Recently featured on Diners, Dives and Drive-Ins, Fuel is a lot of fun.
There are so many more wonderful Charleston restaurants that I could go on and on. Check out Barsa for if you like tapas and visit Grocery for great local food served in three different portion sizes; Tastes, Small Plates, and Entrees. This offered a great way for the two of us to try lots of different things and everything we sampled was first rate. Make sure to leave room for the Churros which is their signature dessert. The crispy, donut-like sticks are served with a trio of sauces; Salted Caramel, Dark Chocolate with a hint of Orange, and White Chocolate. Heavenly. I don't eat meat but I do love dessert!
While we are on the subject of dessert I do want to make sure to mention two bakeries that we really enjoyed visiting during our stay. Sugar is located on Cannon Street down the block from Five Loaves restaurant. They supply the desserts for both Five Loaves and Fuel along with other local restaurants. We enjoyed our cupcakes sitting outside in their tiny courtyard with a glass of sun tea. Jack had peanut butter cupcakes with a strawberry jam filling and I had a caramel cupcake. Coco enjoyed bits of a gingerbread bone.
Wild Flour Bakery is located on Spring Street and on Sunday mornings they sell giant sticky buns with pecans and equally giant cinnamon rolls. Yum! Well worth the walk or drive over, they sell out of those items quickly so either get there early or plan on waiting until the next batch comes out of the oven.
Charleston has so much to offer; history, shopping, quick access to the beach, great restaurants, beautiful homes. It is very walkable. Both Jack and I could really see living there. At least in the Winter when the weather is good. I'm not sure how I'd like the heat and humidity of August. We both wholeheartedly recommend Charleston as a wonderful place to spend a few days, a few weeks or longer.
Food is always my favorite vacation activity. I know this is more of a journey than a vacation, but this sounds like a great place to visit. Plus they all look so cute! Atmosphere really makes meals more delicious.
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