Sing it With Me... "Rocky Mountain Hiiiigh"

I've been thinking about John Denver lately.  Love him or hate him, if you grew up in the '70's, the music of John Denver became embedded in your brain due to the continuous airplay of his songs on Top 40 radio stations.  While I was never a big Denver fan, I still know most of the words to his biggest hits.  (Why is it that I can remember forty year old song lyrics but not the code number to my debit card?)  John Denver's music focused on his love for nature and for Colorado, his adopted home and I can see why.  It's been a dream of mine to live in Colorado since I was dancing under a mirrored disco ball back in the day and now, for a time, I am. 

Jack, Coco and I have been staying in Winter Park, Colorado for almost two weeks now and we really love it here.  Located about an hour west of Denver, Winter Park is a ski town in the Fraser Valley.  It is VERY small but it has lots of restaurants and a nice wine bar so all is good.  We are renting a condo in  the middle of town so we can walk to everything.  There is a river that runs right in front of our building and we've been enjoying sitting outside listening to the water and working on our crossword puzzles together. 

Hiking trails and biking trails are right at the edge of the condominium complex property and we try and get out every day for a walk or a run or a bike ride.  It makes it so easy to get motivated when you can just walk out the door into beautiful scenery.  This morning on my way back from a run I saw a fox in front of one of the buildings.    

Last week-end the three of us went for a hike at Monarch Lake which was about a forty minute drive away.  The trail is a beautiful, four mile loop with a waterfall, a river, and, of course, the lake. 

Jack and I agreed that Coco earned a hiking Merit Badge because she walked the entire loop and seemed to love it.  Lots to see and investigate. 

When you look at Coco on the trail with Jack you can see how small she is and what an trek it was for her.  Even small rocks can be a tough climb when you are that small. 

My favorite part of the day was sitting on a bridge watching the river tumble over the rocks below.  It was a nice spot to catch our breath and take some pictures.  The altitude really takes a lot out of you!

Jack and I were hoping to see some moose on our trek but we were out of luck that day.  We did see some beautiful Calypso Orchids, or Fairy Slippers, which are endangered here in Colorado.

While Jack and I don't know if we could ever live in this small of a town long term, we are really enjoying mountain living and we're glad that we have another month to explore and enjoy that "Rocky Mountain Hiiigh".

On a Walk in Santa Fe

It's hard to believe that our month in Santa Fe is almost over.  Of course, missing most of the first week due to car problems in Shreveport, Louisiana, made the time go by even more quickly.  Santa Fe is an interesting town filled with aging hippies (lots of graying ponytails on both men and women), artists, and retired liberals relocated from somplace else.  I've only met one "cowboy" in a stetson and boots and he turned out to be a retired IT consultant from the East Coast.  With a graying ponytail.

As we walk around town, Jack and I have noticed that Santa Fe appears to be a very homogenous city, which is just a politically correct way of saying it's very White.  I haven't checked the demographics on race here but we've seen very few African Americans or Asians and the local minority appears to be predominately Native American.  Almost everyone is friendly here and the people we meet enjoy talking about what they love about area, what brought them here, and why we should consider relocating to Santa Fe.  



I've told Jack that I'm not sure that I could settle in this desert environment.  I miss the many beautiful shades of green in the Midwest and the simple pleasure of driving with the sun shining through the leaves on treelined streets.  I'm missing lawns, trees and shrubs right now.  A typical street in Santa Fe looks like the picture of the adobe house below.  

 Most homes don't have lawns or paved driveways.  They use gravel or dirt for driveways here which, with my middle-class Midwestern filter, seems messy and poor.  It just isn't appealing to my eye.  Outside the Center of town many of the streets are dirt roads, even in neighborhoods of million dollar homes with street names like "Mansion Ridge Road".  For my Joliet friends, imagine neighborhoods like Timberline and Twin Oaks with dusty Land Rovers and BMWs parked on dirt driveways.   

While I miss the green of the Midwest I sure don't miss the humidity.  Jack and I love the dry air, the clear skies and the view of the mountains as you walk down the street in Santa Fe.  We're still adjusting to the altitude which has affected us more than we expected it to.  Sometimes I find myself huffing and puffing just walking around town which is pretty humbling.  It makes me appreciate my good health and want to preserve it.  Running is a struggle so I just try to go slow and put one foot in front of the other.  Local people have told us that it can take several months for your body to produce enough red blood cells to push more oxygen in this high altitude.

  

One of the great things about visiting or living here is that art is all around you. Whether it is a giant sculpture carved from a tree trunk on a main thoroughfare, original artwork for sale on the walls of a local restaurant, or a bronze sculpture in a courtyard, there is always something new and beautiful to notice and enjoy.  



 A person could get into a LOT of trouble buying art or jewelry here in Santa Fe.  I told Jack that he is just lucky we're traveling in a Volkswagon Passat that is packed to the roof, not a Winnebago.  There are so many beautiful, unusual things for sale!  I'm not sure how all of the galleries stay in business - there are so many of them in a concentrated area.  Of course, when a small sculpture is almost $4,000 you only need to sell one or two a month to pay the bills, I guess.  Our landlady told us that she hosts small art openings for new artists in her home in exchange for a piece of art.  That's a novel way of acquiring original art that I would never have thought of myself. 

Santa Fe appears to be a very spiritual town and religious imagery is everywhere.  Christianity, Native American, Goddess worship and Eastern religions all find a place here. 

                                       

I like the open acceptance of all religions and the fact that people talk about things like faith and entering the Age of Aquarius in the same breath and with total sincerity.  I'm sure that bigotry and narrow world views are here, we just haven't run into it. 

All in all, Santa Fe is a great place for a vacation or to stay awhile.  It's full of history and charm.  Good food, Happy Hour that starts at 3:00 p.m. (what kind of jobs do these people have?), art, and some terrific hiking only 45 minutes away make Santa Fe an excellent destination for a girlfriend getaway, a family vacation or a romantic trip for two.  Add it to your bucket list!





A Welcoming Santa Fe Oasis

Getting to experience how other people in the United States live has been one of the things that Jack and I have enjoyed the most during our almost six months on the road.  It isn't always easy, especially for me.  As anyone who knows me would agree, I'm not the most relaxed person in the world.  I'm getting used to being on the road although it is harder than I thought it would be.  Every part of the country has a different energy and we've learned to adapt. From the fast pace of New York City, to the laid back vibe of New Orleans and now to the oldest state capitol in the country, Santa Fe, we've tried to live like the local people do and adjust to their ways of doing things. 

Santa Fe has a completely different kind of feel than any of the places that we've stayed these past few months and our rental house seems to exemplify that feeling.  It's an adobe home in an older part of Santa Fe that has no central air conditioning or heat.  To enter the home, you go through beautiful wrought iron gates that close in front of a large double wooden door.

There is a small courtyard with a fountain and tiled walls outside of the front door.

A screened wrought iron door closes over the painted front door.  The painting has something to do with feng shui but I'm not sure about the meaning of it.

The living room is heated by a fireplace and has a ceiling with large log beams called vigas.

The doors to the guest bedroom, bathroom and closet are all painted and the guest room has local art hanging on the walls.  In fact, there is art everywhere  

throughout the home.  There are lots of spiritual images and bright colors.

I especially love the kitchen.  The kitchen has another fireplace and has French doors that open to a second courtyard.  It's a cheerful place to cook and to eat.  There is a giant island that is part storage shelf and part counter top.  I like to sit at the counter and sip a glass of wine while I watch Jack cook. 

At the end of the house is the master suite.  The bedroom also has French doors that open to the patio but it has been too cold to sleep with them open.  All of the doors and windows in the house have  decorative wrought iron bars over them that lock, I guess because the windows are so low to the ground, unlike the homes in the Midwest. 

The bedroom has a gas fireplace, a loveseat, a stereo and a television in it.  It's almost like a little apartment.  Jack and Coco and I watch t.v. or read there in the evening.  The bathroom Master Bathroom has no heat (I can't imagine what that would be like in Winter. Yikes!) but the floors are heated. 

We love being in this little home and don't feel the need to be out and about all of the time because just being in the home is restful, like a mini-vacation.  If we do want to get out and see people we are about two blocks away from the Railyard District which has at least ten restaurants, lots of shops, and a Farmer's Market.  There is a walking path a block away and hiking trails are just a ten minute drive.  Jack and I feel lucky to have found this little casita and are grateful that the owner chooses to share it with renters through VRBO. 

Exploring Bandelier National Monument

Jack and I arrived in Santa Fe a few days ago after car problems stranded us in Shreveport, Louisiana for three days.  We drove overnight through Texas and arrived early the next day.  It's taken several days for us to acclimate to the altitude and we've pretty much stayed close to our new "home" during that time.  The house we rented is an adobe home in an historic neighborhood.  It has a beautiful patio that is a great place to sit and enjoy the sun and warm weather so we did a lot of that. We took a walk around town, found a yoga studio, and explored our neighborhood a bit. Yesterday, we felt like we were ready to get out into the great outdoors so we decided to head out of the city and explore Bandelier National Monument.

Bandelier National Monument is located about 40 minutes outside of the city of Santa Fe which made it an easy day trip for us.  Most of the trip is highway driving but there are some parts of the drive with steep drop offs on the side that were a little scary to me.  (Of course, I'm a terrible passenger in a car so it doesn't take much to scare me!)  The scenery is beautiful which makes up for a lot.

What makes Bandelier so special is that there is evidence in the area of human activity dating back more than 10,000 years.  The canyon and mesa area was formed by violent eruptions of the Jemez Volcano more than a million years ago that spread volcanic ash up to 1,000 feet thick over a 400 square mile area.  Over time, the volcanic ash compacted into soft, crumbly rock that erodes easily.  Ancestral Pueblo people used tools to enlarge some of the small natural openings to make dwellings in the cliff face. 

It is an easy hike on a paved path to reach the cliff dwellings.  Even though it was Sunday afternoon, the place wasn't swarming with people so Jack and I could take our time climbing into the cave rooms which are called cavates. 

I really wanted to climb into the cavates but thought that I might not be able to go through with it due to my fear of heights.  Or, I should probably say my fear of falling.  Going up is always fine, it's just coming down that is hard for me.  My girls still tease me that the only reason I was able to get down the Chichen Itza pyramid in Mexico was that there was a girl more terrified than I was and I had to help her climb down.  Which is actually true.  Otherwise, I might still be sitting on the top of the pyramid with my back pressed against the wall!  I try and conquer my fear whenever I can but sometimes it's a slow process and I hate to go through all of that angst in a crowd of people.  Jack is really patient and will always stand by to talk me through it which is nice.  Since the park was quiet I was able to take my time climbing the ladder up into the cliff rooms.   

There is not a lot of room inside the cliff dwellings as you can see by the picture of Jack who is sitting inside one of the cavates.  His head is almost touching the ceiling even while sitting. They were so small that I was afraid to go inside while Jack was in there so we took turns.

One of the dwellings had several small rooms and Jack took a picture of me sitting in what seemed to be a window.  I was so pleased that I was able to climb up there - and get down without crying. 

 

Later, we walked along the stream and looked at the ruins of what was once a thriving city on the mesa.  It was a great afternoon and we hope to get back to Bandelier and do some more exploring before we leave Santa Fe. 





Mardi Gras Indians - A Piece of New Orleans Culture

Every community has it's own unique flavor.  The way people dress, the way they talk and the food they eat, along with the town's history and demographic make-up contribute to the flavor of a community like the ingredients of a stew, or since I'm in New Orleans, like the ingredients of a jambalaya.  Jack and I have enjoyed exploring the neighborhoods, restaurants and music of New Orleans during our stay here, getting a taste of the things that set New Orleans apart while we learn about the culture of this most unusual city. 

One of the most unique things we did during our stay here was to observe the Mardi Gras Indians "Super Sunday" Parade on March 18th.  The Mardi Gras Indians are primarily a tradition of the African American community of the inner city of New Orleans.  While typical Mardi Gras organizations form a "krewe" historically, slavery and racism excluded minorities from participating in typical parades and the black neighborhoods of New Orleans developed their own traditions of celebrating Mardi Gras.  They called their krewes or gangs "tribes" in honor of the Native Americans who helped the African Americans break away from slavery. 



In the past, on Mardi Gras, Indian tribes met to settle scores, often violently.  Due to the general chaos surrounding Mardi Gras and the fact that everyone was masked, police were able to do very little to stem the violence.  As times changed and traditions evolved, "masking" as an Indian has come to mean designing and creating a new costume to wear every year.  

The costumes are hand-made using feathers, sequins and rhinestones.  Each Indian traditionally does his own beadwork and the costume designs are kept secret until Mardi Gras.  Costumes are so elaborate and expensive that no one wants to destroy all of their hard work by fighting or causing trouble so the parades are usually non-violent. 

The Spy Boy leads the procession of the Big Chief of each tribe and signals back to the Flag Boy when another tribe is approaching by using chants, songs or hand gestures.  The Flag Boy carries a large decorated staff which he uses to carry the message to the Big Chief.  The chief is followed by other tribe members or "Second-Liners".  When the two tribes meet, the Big Chiefs greet each other by displaying their plumage and using chants or songs.  The song "Iko Iko" used in the movie Rainman is a traditional chant and is often sung when tribes meet.  During a parade it is a high compliment to tell a Mardi Gras Indian that he is pretty, probably the only time when telling a man that he is "pretty" is an acceptable accolade.  

Jack and I really enjoyed observing the parade and taking pictures of the fabulous costumes.  The people masking were proud of their beautiful costumes and happy to explain their traditions.  The Spy Boy pictured below with me told us that he is an attorney in his everyday life but that his passion is masking and keeping the traditions alive.





Jack and I especially enjoyed seeing the young girls and boys in their intricate costumes marching with their families.  We hope to see more of the Mardi Gras Indians next week-end at the Jazz and Heritage Fest.

 

New Orleans Voodoo

I hate slasher movies and don't like to read murder mysteriers or anything involving women or children in peril but I must admit to a fascination with the supernatural.  Fairies, vampires, werewolves - I'm your girl. New Orleans is a city that is closely associated with the occult so it only makes sense that I would want to do a little research into the supernatural while I'm visiting here.

When my sister Deb and brother-in-law Bob were visiting here recently we made a stop at the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum which bills itself as the original and only actual voodoo museum in New Orleans.  Located on Rue Dumaine in the French Quarter, the Voodoo Museum was created in 1972 by Charles Gandolfo who was a New Orleans Creole native, artist and cultural preservationist.  General admission is $7.00 but because I mentioned that we found them on the internet our admission was only $5.00.  On the day we visited no one was available to give us a tour so we walked around the 3 cluttered rooms ourselves.  Below is a picture of the altar room where people still leave small objects or money on the altar as petitions to the voodoo spirits for intercession.



The Museum's website states that it's purpose is to explain the history of voodoo and it's contemporary existence by exploring voodoo as a spiritual practice,  discussing the facts and folklore surrounding voodoo, and exploring the fusion of voodoo into music and jazz, Mardi Gras, movies and literature. 

Voodoo came to Louisiana when African captives were brought to the territory as slaves bringing with them their religious beliefs rooted in spirit and ancestor worship and their knowledge of herbs, poisons and the ritural creation of charms and amulets used for protection or harm.  Over the course of time, Catholic traditions and practices were incorporated into the voodoo faith and the spirits that presided over everyday life gradually took on the names of the Catholic Saints.  Louisiana voodoo recognizes one God and multiple lesser spirits who intercede in the lives of their followers.  Followers can connect with these spiritual forces through music, dance and the use of snakes which represent Legba.  Unlike the traditional Judeo-Christian imagery of the serpent as a representation of evil, voodoo practioners believe that Legba represents the connection between Heaven and Earth and is the main spiritual conduit to all other spirits and to God.



During our visit we learned that the most famous voodoo practioner was the healer Marie Laveau.  Born in 1801, Marie Laveau was a free woman of color who specialized in love potions and sought to help the hungry and poor. 

In New Orleans, a voodoo priestess is called a Queen and a priest is called a Doctor so Marie Laveau is often referred to as the Voodoo Queen.  New Orleans musician Malcolm "Mac" Rebennack gained fame when he took on the persona of Dr. John, the Night Tripper a name that came from an early 19th century Louisiana voodoo practioner.  His first solo album was called Gris-Gris which is the word for both the act and the object of voodoo magical power.  Wikipedia says that the album contains voodoo rhythms and chants and was ranked number 143 in Rolling Stone's "500 Greatest Albums of All Time".  It might be fun to try and find that.  I wonder if it's on ITunes?



Our stop at the Voodoo Museum was entertaining and informative.  It made for a nice break in our exploration of the French Quarter and got me to thinking about the history of this area and the diverse cultures of the people that live here today.  I'm excited to learn more about New Orleans.





Things We Love About New Orleans

New Orleans Likes: Food, Music, the "Vibe",Feel of History, Smell of Flowers  Everywhere, Friendliness (to humans and dogs), Weather,
Outdoor Lifestyle, Walkability, Festivals, Drew Brees

New Orleans Dislikes: Mosquitos, Heat, Broken and Bumpy Sidewalks and Streets, No Recycling

Jack and I have been in New Orleans now for almost a month and it has taken me that long to start feeling settled in.  Jack seems to feel right at home here and has said more than once that he could see living here.  He loves the heat and humidity (and it's only April!) and of course, the great food and music. 
While I like it here in New Orleans, I don't get the feeling of "home".  We really enjoy the Garden District neighborhood where our rental house is located so it's not that.  Our current home is one half of a double shotgun style house with high ceilings and hardwood floors.  It's certainly not a fancy place but it's clean and safe.  We laugh and say that it's like your dream first apartment after college - close to retail, lots of bars and restaurants, public transportation and Walgreen's.

Jack and I really enjoy the four block walk to yoga class at Shanti Yoga Shala and then stopping at Martin's wine store to pick up a bottle or two of wine on the way home.  You cannot beat their selection and prices! On another day, we might stop at Mahoney's to sit outside and split a veggie poorboy and some amazing onion ring straws washed down with an Abita beer.  While we hiked when we lived in Illinois, we rarely walked to anyplace like a restaurant or store and we are both really enjoying the walkability of New Orleans.  It's also fun to take the trolley that runs between Uptown and Downtown. The wooden seats, no air conditioning and the open windows give the trolley that old time feel that is one of the things we enjoy in New Orleans.

Last Friday, we walked down to Perlis Clothing so that Jack could get some new work clothes (shorts).  Perlis is an old time department store that sells Men's, Women's and Children's clothing.  Unlike in many stores today, every sales person seemed glad to see us and talked to us.  Pleasantly.  They made eye contact.  The owner came over and told me about living behind the store when he was a boy, Jack's salesperson told him about her grandchildren and her recipe for stuffed peppers, and I learned all about the young shoe salesperson who taught himself English at school after his parents immigrated to New Orleans from Korea, earned a scholarship to Tulane and is now headed for medical school.  Such a different way of interacting here.   

 

We love the beautiful homes here in the Garden District and Uptown and, as always, we wonder what these people do for a living?  Some of the homes are amazing, and while you know that they have to be less expensive than a similar home in a city like New York or Chicago they still must cost a great deal. 

Last week, while I was out walking Coco in the neighborhood, I came upon the film crew preparing to shoot scenes for Quentin Tarantino's new movie, Django Unchained.  A neighbor of the home the studio had rented for the shoot told me that it was a Tarantino film starring Leonardo DiCaprio, Jamie Foxx, Morgan Freeman, and Sacha Baron Cohen so I Googled the film name when I got back home.  Unfortunately, no celebrities were spotted that day.  

Jack and I feel very lucky to be able to spend some time in this beautiful city.  We've walked and driven through almost all of the neighborhoods and have found a lot to like.  In the next several weeks, we have both the French Quarter Fest and Jazz Fest to look forward to along with trips to the Rock and Bowl for Zydeco Music and trips to Mandina's and Mother's for local food.  I'll keep you posted!