Every community has it's own unique flavor. The way people dress, the way they talk and the food they eat, along with the town's history and demographic make-up contribute to the flavor of a community like the ingredients of a stew, or since I'm in New Orleans, like the ingredients of a jambalaya. Jack and I have enjoyed exploring the neighborhoods, restaurants and music of New Orleans during our stay here, getting a taste of the things that set New Orleans apart while we learn about the culture of this most unusual city.
One of the most unique things we did during our stay here was to observe the Mardi Gras Indians "Super Sunday" Parade on March 18th. The Mardi Gras Indians are primarily a tradition of the African American community of the inner city of New Orleans. While typical Mardi Gras organizations form a "krewe" historically, slavery and racism excluded minorities from participating in typical parades and the black neighborhoods of New Orleans developed their own traditions of celebrating Mardi Gras. They called their krewes or gangs "tribes" in honor of the Native Americans who helped the African Americans break away from slavery.
In the past, on Mardi Gras, Indian tribes met to settle scores, often violently. Due to the general chaos surrounding Mardi Gras and the fact that everyone was masked, police were able to do very little to stem the violence. As times changed and traditions evolved, "masking" as an Indian has come to mean designing and creating a new costume to wear every year.
The costumes are hand-made using feathers, sequins and rhinestones. Each Indian traditionally does his own beadwork and the costume designs are kept secret until Mardi Gras. Costumes are so elaborate and expensive that no one wants to destroy all of their hard work by fighting or causing trouble so the parades are usually non-violent.
The Spy Boy leads the procession of the Big Chief of each tribe and signals back to the Flag Boy when another tribe is approaching by using chants, songs or hand gestures. The Flag Boy carries a large decorated staff which he uses to carry the message to the Big Chief. The chief is followed by other tribe members or "Second-Liners". When the two tribes meet, the Big Chiefs greet each other by displaying their plumage and using chants or songs. The song "Iko Iko" used in the movie Rainman is a traditional chant and is often sung when tribes meet. During a parade it is a high compliment to tell a Mardi Gras Indian that he is pretty, probably the only time when telling a man that he is "pretty" is an acceptable accolade.
Jack and I really enjoyed observing the parade and taking pictures of the fabulous costumes. The people masking were proud of their beautiful costumes and happy to explain their traditions. The Spy Boy pictured below with me told us that he is an attorney in his everyday life but that his passion is masking and keeping the traditions alive.
Jack and I especially enjoyed seeing the young girls and boys in their intricate costumes marching with their families. We hope to see more of the Mardi Gras Indians next week-end at the Jazz and Heritage Fest.
No comments:
Post a Comment